Some Heat

Oh, and how could i forget: Yesterday morning was a tandoor tour, with some interrogations.

Khalid's office administrator and driver have been our constant companions and translators (and nannies) while here. We began at a naan shop in the Lahore Cantonment, the mostly military district we're staying in. After Emily took a few photos, Rana, the office chief, who'd been talking to some folks on the street, told us it was too busy there and we should find another. There was a long line of young men waiting to buy bread …

We found another tandoor, Butt Bakery (laugh if you like, but Butt is a common Kashmiri name), in the old market in Gulberg, and while Emily shot hundreds of frames I chatted with the bakers about how properly to mix, prepare and bake. The owner had good English and a brother living in Queens, so we got on wonderfully and seemed to cause no disruption.

Wasn't til we got home and Rana talked to Vajiha that we found out we'd left the first tandoor shop because an intelligence agent had showed up to ask why a bunch of 'gora' were shooting photos.